Mitsubishi's TD04H. Chose to go with this for these reasons:
- T25 flange, guaranteeing more options when i later choose to upgrade.
- No water cooling, saves from having to tee-off my cooling line.
- Bush bearing, cheap and easy rebuild.
- Internally wastegated, simpler manifold design.
- Quick spooling.
- Dirt cheap.
Matching downpipe. This was originally for 1NZ-FE so it'll have to be rotated somehow later to face the right direction.
2.5" to 2" reducer. I have decided to go with 2.5" for my charge pipe so this is required to match the compressor output to the plumbing.
Now this is the problem i'm dealing now. Here's a used 1NZ-FE turbo exhaust manifold with T25 flange.
It would make a great match for the turbo. However, i'm not sure how easy (or if it is even possible) to match this to my 4A-GE. The seller was very helpful and measured out some numbers for me to compare it with my 4A-GE exhaust manifold (it's an online classified). Here's what i gathered so far.
Now, i won't be too worried about the stud hole spacing as i can easily redrill them.. What's crucial is that the ports MUST line up. 1NZ-FE port diameter being bigger than the 4A-GE is an advantage, giving more room to play, however, notice the difference on the distance between P1 and P4. Not sure if 15mm of difference is big enough to offset the ports from the block. Gotta draw them to scale to actually see the differences i guess. So far, i haven't bought the manifold yet.
Why bother and not make a custom one? Because it's being offered for only 50 bucks! That's cheap for a cast iron turbo manifold. Cast irons don't crack as easily as their stainless pipe counterpart and you need that on boosted applications as exhaust gas temps will increase significantly. Help me decide if it's worth buying, anyone?