BFRD

Brunei Fire and Rescue Department or Best Firefighters Ride Daihatsu (Charmant)

Two Wheeler's Turn

It's that time of the year again where i am busy working and The Dog neglected. Shame actually since there isn't much left to do on the turbo conversion. Oh well, such is life. Anyway, some of you may have known that i have a motorbike. Lately the fuel tank is starting to leak again. Last time,some silicone glue fixed it but the rust has spread wider, i guess. So, i've been thinking, instead of just fixing the fuel tank again and again, why not go all the way and mod this bike? It's been with me since i graduated college 5-6 years ago, it's about time for it to get some remodeling.

With all the cool bike styling modifications found on the web, can't say it's easy to pick one that i really like. However, lately i found out it's all about cafe-racers or street-trackers for me. Here's some examples that i really like. I can't remember where i got these from so sorry for not citing the source.

and my favorite..

Can't wait to start this project. Gotta finish The Dog first though or i'll be left with no transportation means.

Bride and Groom

After a long time of hunting, found another red Bride seat. This time is the Ergo model. Albeit a replica, this will look sweet paired to the Bride Pro S already on the driver side. Can't wait to put this in. Finally i have a pair of red Brides.

This is the Bride Pro S already installed.

In other news, The Dog has finished her intercooler installation. Now i just gotta find some spare time to swap the injectors, put the BOV on, find a safe map to drive to Jakarta and dyno tune.

Intercooler & Fender Bar Part 3

Things move a bit slow since work is overwhelming lately. I managed to squeeze a bit time to finalize the intercooler piping and here it is.

Turbo to Intercooler Charge Pipe

Clamped and ready..

Bumper space. Also this shows that the vertical bar where the grill mounts which goes from the latch to lower front chassis can no longer be use.

I was lucky to be able to use the stock bumper brackets without any mod.

Intercooler & Fender Bar Part 2

Turbo --> 2 to 2.5 inch coupler (not included in the Ebay intercooler kit) --> L-knee pipe, shortened about 50mm on the turbo side --> straight coupler --> about 160mm section of straight pipe --> 2.5 inch 90 deg silicone elbow --> intercooler inlet

Intercooler outlet --> 2.5 inch 90 deg silicone elbow --> L-knee pipe with BOV flange prewelded --> 2.5 inch 90 deg silicone elbow (not yet delivered, kit only has two elbow hoses) --> TB inlet.

Intercooler and Fender Bar Installation

Just learned that the Ebay intercooler is too big. Just for the record, the intercooler is 31" in length (inlet to outlet, not core size), 11.5" wide and 3" inlet diameter. It's not impossible to be installed but it would take more effort to put in than smaller ones. I learned from d1davey's blog that the best size should be around 510mm in length but i believe this is core size, not inlet to outlet length. I bought one of 520 x 240mm core size with the actual total length being around 680mm and i believe it's a perfect fit. Tonight we'll start the actual installation. I'll update this post with how it goes.

Meanwhile, the Ultra Racing AE86 fender bars are in! They fit nicely with only minor modification required (enlarging the bolt holes a bit and some light hammering on the frame). For the front mount, the nuts had to be welded from the inside of the frame. Just be careful when installing the door hinge part, you don't want to have to realign the doors. This really confirms how similar AE86 frame to Charmant.

The workshop i got this done has some interesting line of cars there. Ford Capri coupe, VW Dakota bus and this stunning Holden Belmont Ute. Talk about slammed!

Adapting 4A-G(Z)E MAP Sensor to Megasquirt I

Some of us Megasquirters choose to go the difficult way of using non-standard sensors. Megasquirt comes stock with MPX4250 sensor which is a 2.5 Bar MAP sensor capable of reading boost to around 1.5 Bar. While convenient, you simply plug in the vacuum line to the on-board sensor and tune away, some of us may choose to save a few bucks and use whatever sensor we already have. In my case, when my engine was setup for NA, i already have a stock 4A-GE MAP sensor and now that i'm going for turbo, i chose to go with 4A-GZE MAP sensor simply because it's cheaper, matches the 4A-GE plug and built to be mounted in the engine bay.

The problem with using non-standard sensor is having to tell Megasquirt about it. Megasquirt (and i believe all ECU) works by reading the sensor voltage output, convert it to MS readable value using ADC (usually 0-5 volt is converted to a span of 0-255 in binary value) and, in the case of MAP sensor, convert the corresponding ADC value to a certain kPa value based on the lookup table we provided when we burn the firmware to MS CPU. Now you see where the problem lies: MPX4250 may and most likely has different ADC to kPa lookup table with other MAP sensors. In easier terms, the voltage output on MPX4250 when reading, say, 100 kPa, maybe different with other MAP sensors. This also applies when you use Toyota's 4A-GE and 4A-GZE MAP sensor.

The steps in adapting non-standard MAP sensor to your MS are:

1. Find the kPa to voltage characteristics of your MAP sensor. This is usually the hardest part but if you're lucky, the internet is your salvation. Since you're reading this, yes, you got lucky. I will share this later below. You need at least two kPa to volt mapping values, assuming your MAP sensor is linear (most of them are).

2. Using a spreadsheet application, make three colums: ADC, Volt, kPA and fill the rows. Put 0 to 255 under ADC. Under Volt column, put 0 volt next to 0 ADC, 5 volts next to 255 ADC and fill up the rows in between. Each cell is (5/255) volts above the preceding value. Round it to two digits. So directly below 0 volt, this would be 0.02 volt. Below this would be 0.04 volt etc.

3. With the values you obtain in number 1, fill kPa column with the corresponding voltage output. As i said, you need at least two values. Then fill up the rest of the rows by extrapolating. Round to zero digits. Change any value below zero to 100.

4. With MS-1 CPU, you change the lookup table values by altering kpafactor and barofactor inc files. These files will be converted to assembly language when you compile the firmware source and burned to MS when you download the firmware. I'm using MS1-extra code 029y4 and it has two sets of kpafactor-barofactor inc files that you can alter: kpafactor4115.inc-barofactor4115.inc and kpafactor4250.inc-barofactor4250.inc. You can find these files under /src folder on your firmware code files. These files contain the lookup value if you are to use MPX4115 and MPX4250 MAP sensor. Since you are not, choose one set that you will alter. I altered the 4115 set for the 4A-GE MAP sensor and 4250 for the 4A-GZE MAP. There's no way i can use stock MS MAP sensors without reflashing the firmware now.

5. Alter the values in kpafactor inc with the one you have under column kPa on step 3. You need to add "T" next to the values. Some of us don't alter the barofactor inc and get away just fine. I don't really understand the purpose of this file but i think it's only useful if you have barometric correction activated on your MS which requires you to have a second MAP sensor to continuously read the atmospheric pressure. Correct me if i'm wrong. However, if you choose to alter the barofactor as well, the values are simply mapped from the kpafactor using this formula:

100*(1-0.0047*(kpafactor value-100))

6. Compile these files to obtain the altered S19 file. Download to MS and you're done.

7. If you're using Megatune, don't forget to copy the same inc files to /mtCfg folder inside your corresponding project folder. Megatune use the same files to ensure the MAP gauge are showing the same kPa values as read by your MS CPU.

8. Ensure when you turn on your MS, Megatune MAP gauge shows approximately around 100 kPa if you live close to sea level. Any value within 4-5 kPa is fine.

If this sounds too complicated, below is the link to download my inc files to save you from the hassle.

Download link.

http://hotfile.com/dl/133739728/5e042c8/4A-GE_4A-GZE_MAP_MS_.inc.zip.html

Remember, i altered the 4115 set for 4A-GE MAP sensor and 4250 set for 4A-GZE MAP sensor. My 4A-GZE MAP sensor is part number 89421-12110 and i believe Supra's 1JZ/2JZ uses the same sensor. If you're upgrading from a working MAP sensor, i suggest you keep the inc files for the working MAP and alter the other. As always, use the files at your own risk. The values for the lookup table are obtained from the following links (as in, don't blame me if my values are off):

- 4A-GE MAP sensor values are from this link.

- 4A-GZE MAP sensor values are from this link.

Damn, another text-only post. Oh well..

Worried About Your Size?

Worry no more! If you're like me, lost the original dipstick to your 16 valve 4A-GE and love your engine enough to worry if it's sufficiently lubricated, now you can save from having to pay up to 20 bucks just to get one from Ebay!

I currently use 4A-C's dipstick on my smallport and have suspected that it's shorter than the original. I filled 4 liters of oil to my freshly rebuilt engine and the next morning, i checked that it only wets the tip, far lower than the LOW mark.

I asked around on Toymods (seriously helpful Toyota guys there!) and got this measurement for my original smallport disptick:

- Rubber seal (where it touches the tube) to disptick tip = 326mm

- Rubber seal to Low mark = 316mm

- Rubber seal to Full mark = 292mm

For comparison, i measured my 4A-C's:

- Rubber seal to tip = 303mm

- Rubber seal to Low mark = 294mm

- Rubber seal to Full mark = 278mm

Just as i thought, it is shorter! Since i had a hard time finding anyone that sells the original dipstick, i asked the seller to just give me something longer and i'll cut to length. He gave me one for Daihatsu Taft (Rugger or Rocky for you?). It has a black T-handle unlike 4A-C's that has yellow looped handle. Cut it according to the measurement and done! Cost me only 3 bucks.

Obligatory picture to avoid making this a text-only post.

Nearly There

Got the engine running again finally. Since pictures worth more than thousands of words (or i'm too lazy to write), here are some progress shots with minimum amount of words in between.

ARP flywheel bolts

Turbo oil drain flange on sump

ARP head studs and 4A-GZE 8.9 CR slugs

ARP head stud protrusion. This is why some need to shave one of the studs as it fouls the distributor shaft. Obviously not this one as i took photo of the wrong side.

Considered leaving the timing belt cover off but put it back on to be safe.

Last shot before turbo conversion the next day. Notice the oil drain line is only ziptied near the strut tower.

The next day, after running the engine for a day and ensuring the rebuild was successful, turbo conversion was started. Oil sandwich adapter went in first. Only one out of four outlets was used.

HKS copy cast iron manifold with gasket cut out from a soda can. Cheap and refreshing, indeed.

The very minimum space at the back of the turbo with downpipe flange off. Gotta move some wiring to protect them from the heat.

Oil lines plugged in and this is the final shot of the day.

The next day which was yesterday, exhaust was fully redone. The initial plan was only to fabricate the downpipe and connect it to the existing exhaust but after quick reconsider, decided to ditch the whole system and put 2-inch pipes front to rear. Only 2-inch? Well, the turbo downpipe flange output is that diameter, i'm merely following. No use in going bigger, yes? The flexible joint was welded to the downpipe and only one tiny muffler was used. The rest of it was 2-inch piping and elbow joints to allow going over-axle. Oxygen sensor bung was installed on the same location as the original piping. Didn't take many photos that day, sorry.

Finally, just today, i installed an SPST switch on the bootloader jumper header on my Megasquirt. I did this to ease flashing firmwares later without having to open the MS case anymore. I'm currently focusing on finding the correct values to go into the kpafactor and barofactor inc files as i'm going to use the 4A-GZE map sensor which is not directly supported by the original MS1-Extra firmware i'm using.

Charmant In The Build

Check and Recheck

The parts for the overhaul just arrived yesterday after dad helped me bought them in Jakarta. I can't even find a gasket kit here! These are the part numbers for future reference.

Piston ring set is for .50 overbore. Also it's confirmed that high-comp rings will fit 8.9 4A-GZE pistons. The ring gap from the top to bottom is 1.2, 1.5 and 2.8mm. Meanwhile bigports should be 1.5-1.5-2.8 and 20 valves should be 1.2-1.5-3.0. Don't quote me on this. I bought a thermostat just to see if my engine likes it as i wasn't using one and it took forever to warm-up.

Aisin makes OEM pumps so even if the box doesn't say "Toyota", it's all good.

On a side note, do your research before you order anything online. Check and recheck your order before you make the payment. Don't expect the seller to know what he's selling. Weeks ago, I asked specifically to the seller for a "4A-GE 16v oil filter sandwich adapter". I refrained from checking myself the thread size on the oil filter although i know there are different sizes for different manufacturer. I got sent an M18x1.5 retaining nut and surprise.. surprise.. it didn't fit.

A simple Google search tells me that i should be getting a 3/4 UNF 16 thread size instead. Should've done it earlier. Since sending the adapter plate back would delay the overhaul progress, thanks to 3/4 UNF being a larger diameter than M18, the nut was rethreaded on a lathe to the correct size so now it fits.