The order was made yesterday and expected to arrive within 3-4 weeks. As my Corona axle is the same axle as Zenki AE86 (it better be, paying more for it than i paid for The Dog), i ordered the LSD for said model. Cusco have two types of LSD, RS-type and MZ-type. Basically what differentiates between the two is how the initial torque to activate the LSD is created. RS-type uses springs while MZ-type uses cone plates to create the initial torque. Here's a comparison pic between the two taken from Cusco's website.
RS is said better suited for street while MS is for track. The RS is always engaged slightly due to the springs and provides a smooth transition from partially locked to fully locked and is much more predictible and controllable due to this fact. The MZ is torque engagement only and is noisier/less predictible. As it doesn't engage until you're on or off the throttle to engage the plates.All of those words above are just theories for me until i get the actual item on my Charmant. Which one did i get? I took the RS-type simply because it's said to be less noisy, smoother and the clutches last longer.
Next, 1-way, 1.5-way or 2-way LSD? 1-way LSD locks only during acceleration, 1.5 fully locks on accel and slight locks on decel while 2-way fully locks both on accel and decel. There are four part numbers for RS-type Zenki AE86 LSD and they are:
- LSD 130 F
- LSD 130 F2
- LSD 130 L15
- LSD 130 L2
Just so you know, the part numbers for Kouki AE86 start with 131 instead of 130. Cusco LSD can be changed between two of the three "ways" options during overhaul and the four part numbers above tells you which combination of "ways" are possible. F is 1-way or 2-way and initially built as 1-way. F2 is like F only initially built as 2-way. L15 is 1.5 and 2-way and comes initially as 1.5 way and the last one, the one that i bought, is like 1.5-way and 2-way and initially built as 2-way. Nobody wants 1-way and 1.5 combination, i guess. I could be wrong about this as i derived this info myself from here. Somebody correct me if i am wrong. My reason for choosing 130 L2? None. I have no experience at all with LSD but i think i won't need 1-way. So it's either 1.5 way or 2-way for me and guessing that 2-way will be more predictable that 1.5-way made me choose L2 over L15.
Let's hope everything turns out well!
edgar you go something really wrong. you will never get the lsd to lock the axle 100 %
ReplyDeleteonly 40 or something. dosnt matter witch one you buy.
"The RS is always engaged slightly due to the springs and provides a smooth transition from partially locked to fully locked and is much more predictible and controllable due to this fact. The MZ is torque engagement only and is noisier/less predictible. As it doesn't engage until you're on or off the throttle to engage the plates"
this isnt true at all. the RS will engage as you say from open 100 % to 40 % locked. and on the other hand the MZ will never do the thing you say as they wouldnt sell it if it was.
there is no way it get engage only at full trotle .
please make sure you buy the right one as the diff is really important. that why i went the locked way!! as i wanted 100 %!
1 way stock LSD driver here, no problem getting my Charmant sideways all the way~~~
ReplyDeleteAnyways, most of my drifter friends recommended 1.5 if you're going for street use.
If you're hardcore trackie, then 2 way is the one to get.
I've never driven anything more than 1 way, so yeah... I don't know shit alright, LOL!
2-way is much like welded diff, only less aggressive. figured that the best for me would be 1.5-way also so that's why i bought the L2 as i can change between 2-way and 1.5-way.
ReplyDeletemy LSD will come built as 2-way but maybe i'll change it to 1.5-way just before i put it in the diff housing.
i don't want to risk breaking half-shafts by welding the diff although yohann did pretty well until now. most probably i have to buy the whole axle if i break a half-shaft and that's something i want to avoid by going LSD.
if the weld job is done properly, it wouldn't break so easily, unless you're a hardcore drifter that likes to abuse it without mercy, then that's a different story.
ReplyDeleteit's not the weld that i worry about. it's the shaft which connects to your wheels. welding it would cause your wheel to rotate at the same speed. if you turn a lot, your shaft would eventually break or lose the splines.
ReplyDeleteedgar. ive never heard that it happend.
ReplyDeletei saw that the shaft end bended as a result of alot of shift lock.
edgar i recomend you not to buy that lsd.
if you want a really good one. that works like a 2 way but without the part that it worn out.
search on ebay for OBX ae86 lsd.
it doesnt work with clutchs but with gears.
much realible!
here's what i am afraid of by going welded diff. http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n247/mouwt/101_1714.jpg
ReplyDeletethat pic is also on a post here http://charmant4age.blogspot.com/2009/12/locking-diff-differentials-on-a60-ke70.html
now you can say that you've seen broken halfshaft pic yohann. that's the spline that goes inside the diff. that pic belongs to our dear friend Jack aka Mouwt and it happened when he ran welded diff.
i saw the OBXs and learned that they're called helical LSD. did a google with keyword "helical clutch LSD comparison" and returned some interesting result. maybe i will post some info on the comparison.
EDGAR.
ReplyDeleteexactly thats the one. that happen to him as a result of alot of shift lock
im pretty sure you wont.
anyway. for the helical. if your going the lsd way. that a better option . and actually cheaper./